But now September and the chile en nogada season has officially arrived. And with it comes a month of patriotic celebrations, none of which would be complete without a good sampling of Mexican gastronomic specialties. And of course, no dish better represents this season than the infamous green, white, and red chile en nogada , a spicy, stuffed poblano chile served with a creamy walnut sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds.

The history of the chile en nogada is well known, although there are various versions. It is said that the original dish was created by nuns in the Santa Clara convent in Puebla. The dish was prepared in honor of General Agustín de Iturbide in 1821. And while there is considerable controversy over exactly how the original was prepared, everyone agrees that its has been modified over the years. And everyone agrees that it has become a patriotic symbol of Mexico's independence, an edible flag, if you will.

While it's arguable that the best chiles en nogada are prepared in the homes of families that have passed down their own versions of the recipe through generations, the reality is that preparing a chile en nogada at home is labor intensive, to say the least. Not so terribly difficult, but a long, tedious process. Just the thought of making these at home makes me want to forget the idea of cooking and enjoy the dish in one of many restaurants (I'll include some favorite options).

But for the brave (or very patient), I'll share a fairly simple recipe. One more thing, this recipe is for 12 and although it might not be worth the effort to prepare fewer, the ingredients can easily be cut in half.



CHILES EN NOGADA

2 poblano chiles.

1 pound of ground pork meat.

1 pound of ground beef.

2 1/2 oz chopped , toasted almonds.

2 1/2 oz raisins.

2 red pomegranates.

50 fresh , peeled walnuts.

1 cup of fresh cream.

1/2 pound fresh cheese.

2 finely chopped garlic cloves.

1 diced "macho" banana (the larger variety).

1 finely chopped small onion .

Chopped parsley, salt, pepper as desired.

Toast and peel the chiles. Open them on the side and take out the seeds and wash them. Put them in hot salty water for about an hour. In hot oil, fry the onion and garlic until they turn clear, then add the pork, beef, banana, raisins, almonds and parsley, salt and pepper. Allow to cook for a few minutes, while stirring occasionally. Fill the chiles with the mixture, place them in a casserole dish and cover to keep warm. Blend the peeled walnuts with the cheese and cream until thick. Cover the chiles with the sauce, sprinkle with pomegranate kernels and parsley. Not recommended for reheating.

Among the many restaurants featuring chiles en nogada , my favorite is probably Loredo. Located near the Zona Rosa at Hamburgo 29, is a very unpretentious place. Nothing fancy, but you'll find what very well could be the best chile en nogada in the city. They're priced at 168 pesos (including a glass of inexpensive red wine). They're enormous. Forget about starters this one dish is more than sufficient for a complete meal. And they are delectable. Loredo serves them with a little flag stuck in the chile with an official number, supposedly certifying their authenticity. This is their 51st year preparing the dish, and I think practice has made perfect. One note: I prefer mine without the egg batter "sin capear." For more information or reservations call 5566-3636.

Another favorite is the Hostería de Santo Domingo. It's in Mexico City's historic city center at Belisario Domíngues 72. Every Independence Day, I make a point to have a chile en nogada there, enjoy the festive decorations in the Zocalo, just blocks away, and make a fast escape before the throngs of revelers arrive later to celebrate. This is one of the very few spots where you can enjoy this dish year-round.

Other favorites include: La Taberna del León, Altamirna 46, San Ángel, 5616-2110. Izote, Masarik 513, Polanco, 5280-1671. Café Tacuba, Tacuba 28, downtown, 5518-4950. And La Hacienda de los Morales, Vázquez de Mella 525, Col. Chapultepec, 5096-3054.

There's no better ring in the patriotic month of September and celebrate Mexico's delectable cuisine than with this traditional dish. ¡Viva Mexico!.

Greg Britt is a freelance restaurant critic based out of Mexico City.